This German Texan: May 2014

When I went to Freyenstein for the first time in 2003, I didn't really know what I was doing. I knew that my great-grandmother's family had come from a town called Freyenstein; I just didn't know which Freyenstein (there are two in Germany, one in Switzerland). I was on a mission, though, and within 48 hours of arriving in Germany, I set out on the Autobahn in a rented Fiat and headed for the nearest Freyenstein, determined to find the birthplace of my ancestors.

After a few construction detours, confusing one-way streets and traffic circles, and an almost complete inability to ask for (or understand) help, my resolve began to give way to frustration and fear. “What am I doing driving around by myself in a country whose language I don’t speak? What if this isn’t even the right town? Why can’t I get this car to go in reverse???”

Just then, as I passed the same building for the third time in Freyenstein’s neighboring town, Wittstock, a song began playing on the radio that I had never heard before. It was Harry Belafonte singing: Ma-til-da! Ma-til-da! Matilda, she take me money and she go Venezuela! Everbody! Ma-til-da…

Matilda—as in my great-great-grandmother whose parents and in-laws came from Freyenstein, as in the woman my grandmother was named after. I didn’t know if the Germans believed in “signs” like other cultures do, but at that moment I smiled and thought, if there ever was a sign from above, this was it. I was headed to THE Freyenstein.

the road to Freyenstein (not the main road--I have no idea how I found this one)

I had a good time in Freyenstein. A few weeks before going, I had emailed the town's librarian, Christine, and told her that I was trying to find out some information about my ancestors. Christine had arranged all kinds of things for me--first, I was given a tour of the church, and then the castle; I was even interviewed by the local newspaper. While I was being interviewed, Christine went to the hair salon next door and told everyone there why I was in town, and one of the ladies came over and let me know we were probably (very distantly) related.

Town square in Freyenstein (2003)

Before I move back to Texas, I wanted to visit Freyenstein again. This trip was a lot more subdued than the last one. There weren't as many cars on the square or as many people on the streets. It seems that more and more people in this former East German town are doing the same as my great-great-grandparents: moving away in search of better opportunities. Though it appeared almost deserted, Freyenstein still had its charm.

town square in Freyenstein (2014)

St. Marienkirche, across from the square

the old castle

side street two blocks from the town square

the "new" castle (built in the 15th century) getting a facelift

One thing that Freyenstein has now that was not around in 2003 is an archaelogical park. The original Freyenstein was destroyed in 1287 and residents then decided to move the town to its current location (across the lake). Old Freyenstein is now carefully being dug up and displayed. There is still a lot of work to be done there, but Freyenstein is hoping this will bring more people to the town.