Eisenach

I love castles, and there are so many in Germany. One that has been on my list for a long time is the Wartburg Castle in Eisenach.

downtown Eisenach

Eisenach is a picturesque town in its own right, but most people go to Eisenach to see the Wartburg Castle. The thing about castles is that they are usually way above the town...

The hike up there is worth it for the view, though.

Even for a castle, the Wartburg is REALLY old: the main hall was built in 1155.  The castle is pretty well-known thanks to a famous visitor it had nearly 500 years ago. In 1521, Martin Luther was excommunicated from the Catholic Church, and he hid out in the Wartburg Castle.  He used his time at the Wartburg to translate the New Testament of the Bible into German.

Martin Luther's room at the castle, presumably where he wrote his translation of the Bible

chapel inside the castle

It's a BIG castle!

Road Signs

Road construction seems to be a constant just about everywhere. At least in Germany they have a sense of humor about it.

Six more kilometers of construction work :(

four more kilometers....

it's getting better...

DONE! :)

Freyenstein

When I went to Freyenstein for the first time in 2003, I didn't really know what I was doing. I knew that my great-grandmother's family had come from a town called Freyenstein; I just didn't know which Freyenstein (there are two in Germany, one in Switzerland).  I was on a mission, though, and within 48 hours of arriving in Germany, I set out on the Autobahn in a rented Fiat and headed for the nearest Freyenstein, determined to find the birthplace of my ancestors.

After a few construction detours, confusing one-way streets and traffic circles, and an almost complete inability to ask for (or understand) help, my resolve began to give way to frustration and fear.  “What am I doing driving around by myself in a country whose language I don’t speak?  What if this isn’t even the right town?  Why can’t I get this car to go in reverse???” 

Just then, as I passed the same building for the third time in Freyenstein’s neighboring town, Wittstock, a song began playing on the radio that I had never heard before. It was Harry Belafonte singing: Ma-til-da! Ma-til-da! Matilda, she take me money and she go Venezuela!  Everbody! Ma-til-da…

Matilda—as in my great-great-grandmother whose parents and in-laws came from Freyenstein, as in the woman my grandmother was named after.  I didn’t know if the Germans believed in “signs” like other cultures do, but at that moment I smiled and thought, if there ever was a sign from above, this was it.  I was headed to THE Freyenstein. 

the road to Freyenstein (not the main road--I have no idea how I found this one)

I had a good time in Freyenstein. A few weeks before going, I had emailed the town's librarian, Christine, and told her that I was trying to find out some information about my ancestors. Christine had arranged all kinds of things for me--first, I was given a tour of the church, and then the castle; I was even interviewed by the local newspaper.  While I was being interviewed, Christine went to the hair salon next door and told everyone there why I was in town, and one of the ladies came over and let me know we were probably (very distantly) related.

Town square in Freyenstein (2003)

Before I move back to Texas, I wanted to visit Freyenstein again. This trip was a lot more subdued than the last one. There weren't as many cars on the square or as many people on the streets. It seems that more and more people in this former East German town are doing the same as my great-great-grandparents: moving away in search of better opportunities. Though it appeared almost deserted, Freyenstein still had its charm.

town square in Freyenstein (2014)

St. Marienkirche, across from the square

the old castle

side street two blocks from the town square

the "new" castle (built in the 15th century) getting a facelift

One thing that Freyenstein has now that was not around in 2003 is an archaelogical park.  The original Freyenstein was destroyed in 1287 and residents then decided to move the town to its current location (across the lake).  Old Freyenstein is now carefully being dug up and displayed. There is still a lot of work to be done there, but Freyenstein is hoping this will bring more people to the town.

old East German mural on the partially-remodeled school building where the archaeological museum is
 

more work to be done at the park

Bayern-München!

Before last weekend, I had only been to Munich once on a tour in high school. The only thing I really remember from that quick run-through was watching the Glockenspiel with the crowd.

This time I watched the Glockenspiel, too, but the big event for me was going to the Bayern-München soccer game at Allianz Arena. The game itself wasn't that exciting, but just being there was. I wasn't sure what to expect, because I had seen groups of rowdy fans around Munich that day. For a pro sport game, it was all so civilized. It was more like a tennis or golf crowd. When a good effort was made on either side, the crowd clapped. When something happened that the crowd didn't appreciate (e.g., a foul not being called), the stadium erupted, but not in boos or screams. The crowd WHISTLED very loudly. When Bayern-München scored a goal, the announcer asked the crowd for the score, for which he then thanked them (and they responded in kind):

Announcer: Bayern-München?

Crowd: ZWEI!

A: Leverkusen?

C: NULL!

A: Danke!

C: BITTE! 

Bayern-München and Leverkusen before the game 

It was all so polite--at least, on the Bayern side. I could be wrong, but I am pretty sure I heard "Scheiss auf" in one of the opposing teams' chants. If you go to Allianz Arena, you probably don't want to be in the opposing teams' section; you won't be allowed to take food or drinks to your seats. I don't know why...maybe you will throw it at the FC Bayern fans? I did hear from a reliable source that the men's room in the guest section had been trashed. So, maybe some concern is justified. 

Driving past the Allianz Arena after Bayern-München's win